In southern Italy and most Italian-American homes, Christmas Eve is a serious affair. This was always my favorite part of the Christmas season. With the preparations—shopping, decorating, and baking—behind us, we can enjoy the paramount task: putting together the Christmas Eve feast. We prepare seven special fishes. No one seems to know why seven fishes, but the custom is widespread among different regions. Some research alludes to the seven sacraments, others to seven virtues. Whatever the origin, the fish is always delicious. Mom and Dad began weeks in advance, assuring that all the special ingredients were on the pantry shelf. Dad took off to the Philadelphia fish market to purchase the best available seafood.